Farewell Cameroon

I am sad to be leaving; but, at the same time,happy to be going home. I love the people of the North West - they are so friendly, generous and appreciative. They welcomed me into their lives and took care of me. I somehow feel complete, appreciated and able to be myself around them. Here is a typical picture taken out of the bus window on the trip back to the coast. Farewell to all the friends I made - We are together.

On the buses

The bus system in Cameroon is based on maximising the passenger load. While there is a limit to the number of passengers they will take on the long distance routes, the bus will not leave until it is full. I took a luxury bus for the six hour trip from Bamenda to Douala. Luxury means they limit the passengers to one per seat, no livestock in the passenger compartment and the driver will stop if you want to go pee by the side of the road.

Tax collecting in Cameroon

Collecting taxes and licences from Taxis and motorcycles in Bamenda and ensuring that they are properly licenced can be difficult. The revenue collectors use this method which is translated from the French as “the instrument” to encourage cars and motos to stop at the check points. One of the rules they are trying to enforce is limiting motos to one passenger – I have seen as many as four plus the driver on one bike.

Kids will be kids

The further you get away from the City, the more natural and fun loving the kids seem to be. They love to have their pictures taken and ham it up for the camera. I watched this boy for about ten minutes on the main street of Bandalang, just relaxing and watching life go by.

Bush meat

You have to be careful what you are eating in Cameroon. They have a habit of putting whatever meat they can find in their stews – they call it bush meat and in could be squirrel, rat, rabbit or whatever they happen to catch. These boys were selling something thay had dried which could have been a large rat. I didn’t buy it.

Visiting my foster child

For all of those of you who have foster children in the developing world, I am sending a huge “thank you” from all the villages you support. Today, I visited my foster child, Anatou, in Bambalang, 90 minutes from Bamenda. It was one of the most amazing and moving experiences of my live. Plan has been operating in the community since 1996 and build schools, wells, a bank, organized training programs and given the village pride. I was the first foster-parent in all those years, who had come to visit their sponsored child. The whole village turned out at a reception ceremony at the Fon’s Palace to say “thank you” to me and to you. Four groups of schoolchildren sang songs written in my honour, several people made speeches and presented me with copies, I was presented with a traditional costume and invited to dance with the traditional dancers. After a tour of Plan projects, there was a huge feast for 200 people at Anatou’s family compound with more speeches, singing and dancing. Anatou herself, the little princess, was a little overwhelmed at being the symbol of her village’s good fortune; but handled it perfectly. I felt so privileged to represent all the foster parents from Canada and around the word and to receive the appreciation of the people of Bamdalang on your behalf.

Carrying stuff

What people carry here on their heads or on their shoulders is incredible. This big guy was carrying half a tree. I took his picture as he walked towards me, and as he drew level with me he put it down and started to talked to me in pidgin. He was part of a work party from the local prison and a couple of minutes later the guard came along with a gun over his shoulder, chatted with me and then they disappeared up the road with the tree trunk.

Kumbo

My second workshop was in Kumbo, up in the hills, 3 hours drive from Bamenda on terrible dusty roads. To get there we had to get a car from the “car park” on the outskirts of the City. There are areas set up for each destination and it’s like a taxi system; you have to take the next car going to your city. The cars are mostly 2 door Toyotas. They sell seats to Kumbo at 2,500 francs ($5) and when the car is full, they leave. Full means the driver plus 8 passengers – 3 in the front and 5 in the back. We had to buy 6 seats between two of us so that we could be reasonably. The country side is beautiful; but I didn’t get very many good shots, as we had to keep the windows rolled up to keep the dust out.

Fish and chips Cameroon style

I have tried many of the local dishes here; but most involve eating indistinguishable meat products with your fingers. We went to the best hotel in Bamenda on Saturday and had a buffet which was delicious. Afterward the chef came out to meet us and informed us that we had just eaton hedgehog!
So mostly I stick to fish and chips with a Tuborg.

The Rains

When it rains here it really comes down. It usually starts with hot sticky weather for 24 hours and then a sudden wind followed by a few drops and then a downpour that would soak you in a minute if you are cuaght in it. Yesterday at the workshop we were trapped in the lecture hall for an hour and no-ne would cross the courtyard where are lunch was waiting for us in the dining hall. For some reason the rains are always followed by power outages. We were without power here all day today.

Mud brick houses

The mudbrick houses built here are a lot more sophisticated than I had imagined. The bricks are shaped and baked in the sun and are about the size of our cinder blocks. After the walls are constructed they are covered with a skin of cement to protect from the elements and last for years

What a workshop!

What an incredible day. I am exhausted. After a week of logistics, meetings, and lunches with mayors I finally got led my first worshop here and remembered why I came back to Africa. On a sweaty day at the Presbyterian Church hall they started to trickle in at 8:30. By 10:30 I had 34 finance office from as far away as Wum, engaged in lively debate. These people are so great, so open, so eager to learn. They want to know everything we are doing and want to debate everything. I was on my feet for 8 hours, drank 3 litres of water and totally loved the day. I am back tomorrow, Saturday for another session and then I monday go 5 hours into to hill country to lead two days of workshops in Kumbo.

Shey Henry

As far as I can figure out, Shey Henry Ngani is the equivelent to the Deputy Minister of Municipal Affairs for North West Cameroon. I met him briefly on my last trip and he has been advising me on my training sessions here. His office as part of the government complex on the top of the hill overlooking Bamenda is in an old German fort, built in 1902.

Meeting of the Mayors

The Mayors in Cameroon have much more power than Mayors in Canada. They are basically mayor and city manager rolled into one. Their councils meet once every three months and after the budget has passed, they have total authority within those guidelines. Getting them together has been difficult, as many of them have to travel 8 hours to get to Bamenda. Luckily the new Governor was being installed today, so they were all in town and we had our big meeting this afternoon with 22 of them. I made my presentation and with a few minor changes they accepted my recommendations on trainng. I will do two workshops - one this week and one next.

Eating soup with your fingers

The staple meal in this part of Cameroon is Achu. Most restaurants serve it and some serve nothing else. The local people love it: but it's an acquired taste, especially for westerners who are not used to eating soup with their fingers. It consists of a paste, the consistency of dough, made from coco yams. You use your hands to form into a sort of bowl on your plate and then pour a thick yellow spicy soup inside. By using two fingers you scrape some paste from the outside of the "bowl" and dip it in the soup. It is the eaten with whatever fish or meat is available. We went to a place in Bafut today and that was all that was available to eat so I screwed up my courage and waded in. Its something that everyone who comes to Cameroon should do once.

The Main Market

I played the tour guide today and took the other two Canadian volunteers to the main market in Bamenda. It is a wonderful place - you can buy anything there; from fruit to fish from clothes to hardware. It is Donna's first time in Africa so she was very nervous and concerned about whether she was going to ripped off. I eventually persuaded her to have a shirt made in a design she liked from material she chose. It was 5,000 francs or $10.

Back in Bafut

Went back to Bafut today and it was so great to see all of the people again. I wore by cap and feather and was treated as a true Bafutman. lots of handshakes and hugs and questions about why I had not brought my family his time. It was good to see that the budget spreadsheets I had created were being used and that some of the recommendations I had made about organizational changes had been inplemented.

The Austrian Farmers

Also staying at the Baptist Mission are two Austrian farmers: Peter and Alfons. They came here on their own to work with a group of women farmers who want to learn the best ways of using compost to improve their soil. They have done this before in several African countries and have tremendous fun with whatever they do. We go to Alizan's for barfish and chips with them in the evenings.

Cameroonian wedding

I went to Bamenda 2 Council today at the invitation of the Mayor to meet with some of the staff. Soon after I arrived, he was called on to preside at a wedding in the council chambers and insisted that I attend. He gave a long speach about the responsibilities of marriage and after explaining the difference between a monogamous and a polygamous marriage, asked the bride and groom to choose between the two. Aparently both are legal in Cameroon; but you have to choose and have your choice recorded on the marriage certificate.

The Baptist Mission

I am so happy with the place I am staying. There are about a six small sleeping rooms each with their own bathroom surrounding a large common area that contains couch and chirs fridge and stove, TV and computer with internet access. They provide breakfast and there are several restaurants close by for lunch and dinner.
A covered area in the cortyard outside has electrical outlets and internet access, so I have set it up as my work area. A slight breeze makes the 28 degree heat very pleasant and the area is private enough to hold meetings with government officials who all know of the place.

On the way to Bamenda at last

We have our papers from the consolate and our registered our visas with thepolice and are just in the CESO office Douala going over the final paperwork. The driver is outside in his trusty Toyota to start the six hour drive to Bamenda. I can't wait to get started on my assignment.
This photos was taken when we stopped on the road at the halfway point.

Marking time in Douala

When we arrived in Douala, Ebob informed us that we must file papers with the local consulate, which was not open until Monday. Our trip to Bamenda was delayed. Ebob thought she had booked the Catholic mission for three nights, but they told us Saturday it was only one. We had to move.
The funniest thing happened when we all piled into an old toyota taxi to go to the new hotel. We got halfway through one of the busiest intersections in the city, we stalled. Without missing a beat the driver jumped outand pushed the fully loaded vehicle through the interesction and then left us sfor ten minutes until he came back on he same motorbike carring a watering can full of gasoline, quickly refilled and we were on our way. Nobody thought that this was starnge at all.

Adventures in Douala

The heavy tropical air enveloped us as we walked off the plane and into the aging Douala terminal. A multitude of officials stood around while one glanced at my yellow fever certificate and another interminably examined my visa as I sweated in my fleece and gortex jacket. I was pleasantly surprised to see my familiar bags bouncing on the decrepit old carousel in a strange city. My travelling companion David was not so lucky; only one of his bags arrived. Trying to help, I gave an official ten Euros to help us speed us through customs. This was a mistake, as all his friends then besieged us with offers of help and we had to run a gauntlet out to our taxi, which Ebob had arranged to whisk us off to the Catholic mission where we were staying.

Paris is such a great city

I was able to sleep on the plane so arrived in Paris ready to go. Katie came in from Barcelona about noon and we got the train down to Notre Dame and had lunch in a bistro. Walked around a lot, went over to the Eiffel tower and tired me out. Tomorrow noon back to the airport and off to Cameroon!

Photo courtesy of Katerina Weller

Leaving Victoria

As soon as I handed over my two 49 pound suitcases to Air Canada at YYJ, I relaxed. All the things I have forgotten, I will have to do without. All the things that I forgot to do, someone else will have to do. My experience shifted from anxiety to excitement in an instant

Ready to go

Well I've got my visa, had my shots, arranged my ticket and packed my malaria pills. I have arranged for Susan, Erin, Penny, Caitlin and Allison to take care of things while I am away. I am off to Cameroon in about 36 hours on assignment with the Canadian Executive Service Organization.